Tuesday, January 13, 2015

Breeding Caridina typus "Australian Amano Shrimp"



2015 sometime


I recovered my first batch of typus larvae this evening. From mating to release ~15-18 days. Transferred to a slightly salty green water but not holding a lot of hope as the green water has crashed due to cold weather and doesn't look right. I've got another 4 berried females isolated so once each releases I'll set up a new coffee jar with a different water brew. The DAS are not going as well either (2 weeks in salt today) with high mortality which also points to the algal mix being wrong. I have a compound microscope now... hopefully some time over the break to look at the water!







Week old Caridina typus larvae taken through poor resolution kids microscope. I'm using the microscope to get a feel for the size of algae particles they might eat - the quality is too poor for much else but I have been able to rule out some of my green water sources as inappropriate because the algae was just too big. I'm guessing the algae needs to be in the 5-20 µm size range. I'm passing green water through a 50 µm mesh and the cells that get through are still way too big.

If many survive just a few more days it will mean they survived the first moult.... which is a big milestone. (the first three batches didn't make it! This one is showing promise)

I'm trying to rear them in seawater. I can see some larvae still in the "mother" tank clinging to the dirty glass - I'll leave them, and leave it dirty and see if any make it in the fresh water.

The main thing with these pics is the guts do not look empty... so I'm hoping that means they are eating.



The larvae are a little smaller than DAS larvae - about 1.5mm long. Yes living (until this one dried out on the slide) ... plenty more where he came from.

here is a picture of the green algae from my duck pond that is too big. Its the same higher magnification as the bottom two shrimp larvae pics ^ and as the larvae don't have well developed mouth parts yet they cant chew. - eating this algae would be like us trying to swallow apples whole.



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Powdered spirulina from the health food shop has some smaller fragments that may be the right size but most are too big and settle out.

I think the larvae need to filter small particles as they don't have the mouthparts yet to chew on filaments.​



01-03-15, 08:53 PM


Success at last after the tank developed its own suspended food supply (all artificial diets failed). Saw my first juveniles tonight. So ~5 weeks as planktonic larvae (in salt water) metamorphosing at ~3-4mm. Definitely swimming forwards like a shrimp (too fast to photograph). Similar development as for DAS but a little slower to develop and metamorphosing as smaller juveniles (may be a real difference or may just be less favourable conditions in the rearing tank). If they follow the same growth pattern as DAS they should grow much more quickly as little shrimps compared to the larvae.



01-03-15, 10:13 PM

I did look at some more local prepared foods - live cultures and phytoplankton pastes can be got from http://www.reefculture.com.au and if I'd had too many more failures I would have pulled the trigger on some. In the end I set up a variety of tanks and coffee jars with different water sources (+salt) and different lighting and let nature take its course until something bloomed in one of them. It looks like the Seachem product has similar algae - would provide more certainty if it works... next time perhaps!



Just to show how damn small juvenile Typus are despite 6 weeks growing as planktonic larvae. Settled DAS are twice the size.

This guy is approx. 2 months old.​



​ Oh my. I've put a lot of very blurry phone camera photos up of shrimp larvae over the last few months. Tonight I re-acquainted myself with my old 7MP point and shoot camera (Canon A720) that as it turns out has a pretty good macro mode. I wish I could go back and start over. My C. typus released another bunch of larvae tonight. Tank was clear at 9pm and I found these just before midnight. Its impossible to get them all in focus but for the first time I snagged a photo of "0-Day" larvae where you can see they look like baby shrimp swimming vertically. Unfortunately I had to stop taking photos because they started to drift towards the filter and I wanted to catch them. Definitely room to improve further. More light will make for sharper exposures as these are hand held without flash in a dark room with only an LED torch on the tank (POS camera flash just reflects off the glass).







I cleaned the glass of a nearby fish tank and squeezed the cloth into my salt water C. typus lavae tank to add some algae and diatoms to the water as food for the planktonic shrimp larvae. The metamorphosed juvenile typus shrimp took that as a signal to "migrate upriver" and they congregated in the current of the air bubbler swimming madly "upstream" against the current. I only added a few drops of dirty rag "juice" to the tank but it must have smelt like "home".

Current is flowing left > right. Each baby shrimp is ~3-5mm long.

There are still some larvae that have yet to metamorphose into shrimplets, but I expect to migrate these into fresh water next week.



27-04-15, 04:42 PM



Today I put them into a bigger freshwater tank to grow (there were 10-15 slowpokes that either took a long time ... or died without ever metamorphosing).

So this marks the completion of my first C. typus breeding. They took 6-12 weeks as planktonic larvae in salt water before becoming juveniles, which is much slower than DAS (4-7 weeks).

Mortality was pretty horrendous this time around - at a guess 5% made it but I never counted the larvae.
6-12 weeks is a long time for a small unfiltered container and a second tank I had going with the same original water became colonised by blue-green algae and the water quality went to hell and the larvae perished.

Just sea water ~33g salt per litre but I use an el cheapo floating glass hydrometer that has a green stripe around the specific gravity of sea water. The time is probably right to do a few tests with 1/2, 2/3, 3/4 sea water etc.. again. Last time I tried everything died at 2/3 seawater... but that also happens when the algae mix isn't right so I need to run a bit of a sequence at the same time to resolve the salinity requirements better.

The problem with adding a filter is I want the micro particles for the shrimp to eat, so it has to be biomedia only - perhaps a fluid bed filter... but that would mean much bigger volume containers than I use now (2l coffee jars & 10l aquariums). I am playing around a bit with the air rates (=flow) a bit..but no clear winners yet.



11-06-15, 11:17 PM

Breeding typus is still a bit hit an miss for me. Last few batches trying lower salinities (~ 20ppt) didn't work very well (only a handful made it). The same algae cultures and salinities worked brilliantly for DAS at the same time. The Typus are smaller larvae so maybe the algae is too big. Now trying another run at higher salinity of 34ppt.
29-08-15, 06:52 PM
​ This is the first reproductive female that I've reared from hatching all the way to maturity. She's from the batch photographed ^^ 11-04-15. So now we know it takes approx 1 month for larvae to settle as juveniles and then approx 5 months to grow to sexual maturity.
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And today I just completed migrating the second successful batch to go all the way through... 2nd from ~15 attempts. Ive had a few batches where only a handful survive and many where all died. This batch salinity ~24ppt, and temp 28C.

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Thursday, March 27, 2014

Breeding Darwin Algae Shrimp




​ Have gotten past the first hurdle. These are 5 day old Darwin Algae Shrimp zoe that have been in salt water for the last 4 days. (sorry - no macro photo gear.. this is actually a phone shot cropped for a little extra magnification).

The problem I had with deaths before seems to be related to the salt mix being too fresh and the salt is apparently caustic. I'm mixing red sea brand marine salt with a fresh greenwater culture. The freshwater algae don't survive long, but the water is a nice olive green and has lots of minute particulates that an air stone keeps suspended so hopefully there is something for the zoe to eat. I did read of one guy raising Amano shrimp in salty water with a freshwater algae culture so who knows.... it might work.

I'm being a bit sloppy with the salinity as I don't have a hydrometer or refractometer yet... I'm just using some electronic scales to weigh out 35g salt per 500ml of water (double seawater concentration) as a stock solution. Then every day I half fill a 125ml bottle with fresh greenwater and top it off with the concentrated seawater which brings it back to ~seawater. I know the salinity is a bit lower as I added some additional freshwater on the day I dropped the zoe in because I was wary of osmotic shock. (hillbilly bucket chemistry ​)

These are tiny... ~ 1.5-2mm long at a guess



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Edit: ~10 days old

Green water cultures are slowly crashing (cooler weather or copepod bloom eating the phtyoplankton!). There is a fair bit of gunge in the bottom of the salt tank and I've stirred it up a few times to re-suspend more "food" into the water column.​



another week...



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Another week on... little black eye spots visible now.

I'm guessing ~80-90% survival at this point. Still planktonic mostly swimming in vertical position "bum up".

They are positively photo-tactic and the sun is hitting this corner of the tank so when I turn off the air pump to still things down for a photo they congregate here.



Approx 20 days old today. Now seeing a few that appear to have settled as shrimp-like postlarvae even though they are still very small (3-4mm). When shining a bright torch on the side of the tank now there are a few individuals that launch from the bottom and swim forwards like the adult shrimp do (very fast!) away from the light. The planktonic larvae move towards the light.

If anyone in interested here is a nice review paper on the life cycle of freshwater shrimps that have marine larvae from the Latin american journal of aquatic research.



​ Another week on... so ~ day 24

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Have 30 ish that have transformed @ ~ 4mm
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Still *plenty* in "float mode" still...(torch shining on this corner)

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​ Its Thursday so we're another week on and approx 1 month old.

After a few days to a week of post-larval shrimplets swimming around in the estuary its time for that big migration up river back to freshwater!

So last night I used a torch to attract all the still planktonic zoea that had not yet transformed and siphoned them off into a coffee jar so they can continue development in "marine" water.

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This leaves me with a small tank with a gazillion little shrimp.

The tank is approx 15L at near enough to 35ppt salt (sea water concentration). I'm siphoning off water (through an airstone so the little shrimp don't get sucked out) and replacing ~1.5 L of salty water with fresh water each morning and night.... so in 5 days (ish) the tank should be close to fresh (and the big migration complete).

Last night I used 1L from my greenwater tank because I wanted to make sure food is abundant (as can be seen in the green pic below) - the salt kills most of the algae and it settles and I presume the shrimplets eat it. I can see shrimps trailing poo strings so I know they are eating something. There is a fair amount of accumulated dead algae/diatom/mess in the bottom of the tank also.

When the freshwater goes into the tank there is a flurry of swimming which I'm equating to the instinctive upstream migration response. I couldn't get clear photos as they herb around very fast.

I *think* the mortality in this transformation stage might be a bit higher - hard to tell as there are so many. I'm just not certain there are as many swimming around today as there was 3 days ago (despite more larvae joining the transformed masses). Certainly once transformed to eat benthic food there is a big jump in growth rates. This time around I wanted to cut my losses and get them into freshwater in case there is a time limit. ie if you dont get to freshwater within a certain time they might die. I dont know. Hopefully they can grow on in salt water for a long time - in which case I could leave them and just wait until all the planktonic zoea had transformed (e.g. another 2 weeks perhaps) and then migrate the whole batch into fresh water.

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​​ ​ [QUOTE=Grubs;498234] So last night I used a torch to attract all the still planktonic zoea that had not yet transformed and siphoned them off into a coffee jar so they can continue development in "marine" water.

​[/QUOTE]

That was a little over 2 weeks ago when I put the first batch of juveniles into fresh water. This second group of "late bloomers" from the coffee jar made it through. Pic below in a small single serve yogurt container.
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On quick count thats another ~100 "juvies" joining the mob. The size variation (3-8mm?) is because the biggest transformed to juveniles ~2 weeks ago and have been benthic feeding on the crud in the coffee jar while tiny ones did laps in the water column as plankton until just a few days ago.

The biggest of the first lot are approaching 15mm.

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Rough guess ~300-400 juveniles from 2-3 berried females.


Second Generation


​ DAS breeding has been a little too successful and I'm now rearing a bunch of juveniles. Planning to have ~100 or more in my display tank but it will take a good 12 months to get them big enough so the fish don't clean them up. Now concentrating on C. typus which are proving to be significantly more challenging (and frustrating) where all drop dead in the same water that is successful at rearing DAS.


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Monday, July 14, 2008

Dosing with Grubs - My DIY Fert Regime



This post started as an email to another forum member after our recent discussions on how our fert regimes were so different.

I figured I'd post this info for all to see as it may prove useful or interesting for others.

My particular approach is just the end result of starting with some known methods, comparing them and tweaking them over time...until I fell into what I do currently. I mix my own "brew" from dry chemicals because I like to tweak the mix to suit my plants and my mood.

Essentially I started on PMDD, then added a little Phosphorus...which brought me closer to PPS (Classic or Pro take your pick) and I do water changes to reset the tank as with EI. What I do now is close to a 1/2 strength PPS-Pro with EI style water changes (no test kits required!). I keep my water column dosing lean in order to grow some tricky Australian native Rotalas (R. mexicana, R. occultiflora)...but it seems to work for most other things. Tonina still rots for me though!

I'm using Eastern Suburbs Melbourne Water...which comes from heavily forested catchments that are closed to human landuse.

Very clean. Very Soft. Ph ~ 7, KH 0-1 dKH, GH = 0-1 dGH.

I dont bother boosting KH any more I used to add Sodium Bicarb to bring KH up to ~4 dKH but some posts on other forums dispelled the "PH swing" myth for me and I decided there was no need. My fish and plants have been very happy at KH 0-1. My CO2 is on a timer. pH in the tank is 6.6-6.0 most of the time.

I buy my dry chemicals from Duralite as they are local, they had CaSO4, and are cheap (most dry chemicals are only $3-4 per kg) Dave @ Aquagreen has most of these cheaply too.

The point of this post is just to put the info "out there" for reference as what works for me in my high-tech 6ft "Dream" tank (600l) predominantly but I do this for all my CO2 tanks. Growth over the last few months has been explosive. My Madagascan lace is sending up its 4th flower spike, Pogo has stems as thick as my finger, Blyxa japonica reaches 30cm high and I'm pruning constantly (too often!).

For my small tanks I just use the proportionate amount (e.g. in my 70l I dose 0.7ml of Macros/day.)

I aim for 50% waterchanges each week "EI-Style" - the water goes into the rainwater tank and is used to flush the loo! I break out the test kits once every couple of months to check the tank is still on track... which it normally is.


Note: 1 ppm = 1 mg/l

DIY GH Booster at Weekly Water Change
174g K2SO4
108g CaSO4
121g MgSO4

Mix powders together in a jar - makes around 400g (I make this amount because my digital scales only weigh to 500g)

I dose approx 4 teaspoons in 200l at each weekly waterchange (i.e. enough raise Melbourne tap water to ~ 4 dGH). I just spoon the powder into the tank as the water is refilling. The CaSO4 can cloud the water a little for 6-12 hours as it is slow to dissolve.

Analysis:
K 19.5%
Ca 7.5%
Mg 3%

Ca:Mg = 2.5:1

My "old" recipe was similar to Seachem Equilibrium with a Ca:Mg = 4:1 but with very soft water additional Mg gives various Rotala sp a real bost. I got this gem of information regarding Ca:Mg from kekon's thread on APC.


Daily Ferts - Trace Nutrients

I use REXOLIN APN MICRO MIX, a chelated trace mix for hydroponics from http://www.duralite.com.au Cost was $13 for 1kg. I believe it is similar to the Simplegrow mix Aquagreen now sells and isn't all that different to the Plantex CSM-B the Americans are fond of.

Elemental Makeup:
Iron DTPA 6%
Manganese EDTA 2.4%
Boron 1.1%
Zinc EDTA 1.3%
Copper EDTA 0.25
Molybdenum 0.25%
Cobalt EDTA 0.03%

Stock Solution = 125ml (yes only a small bottle)
20g Rexolin APN trace Powder.
fill to 125ml with Water.

Dose 3ml into 600l every day.
Equivalent Daily Dose of Iron: 0.05 ppm/day Fe


Daily Ferts - Macro Nutrients

My Stock Solution = 125ml (yes only a small bottle)
10g KNO3
1.5g KH2PO4
7g MgSO4.7H20
10g K2SO4

fill to 125ml with Water.

Dose 6ml into 600l every day.
Equivalent daily dose:
NO3 = 0.5ppm/day
PO4 = 0.08ppm/day
K = 0.6ppm/day
Mg = 0.06ppm/day


I use small stock solutions - only 125 ml because I dont use a lot (lasts about 2 weeks) and I like to tweak the recipe each time the bottle runs out - perhaps a little more P and a little less NO3 one time, a little more Mg the next.

I bought a little 500g digitial scale on ebay and it only takes me a few minutes to whip up a fresh batch.

DIY Substrate fertiliser balls
I mix a little Australian native Osmocote (it has low P) and a pinch of blood and bone into some laterite clay and roll them into marble sized balls. I'm guessing there are 6-10 little osmocote balls in each marble sized clay ball. Every couple of months I stick a couple in the tank under the heavy root feeders (Madagascan lace, Lotus, Crypts....and I believe they have been the saviour of my Rotala mexicana). Its been noted on this forum several times before (e.g. here) that substrate fertilising with low watercolumn levels seems to benefit some Australian native plants. Dave's Dino-Dung would do the same job here.


Comparison to.....

EI dosing

I'm comparing to this post of Tom Barr on his site where rather than just talk about spooning in dry chemicals he gives a more "analytical" EI method.

Stock Solution = 1000ml
60g KNO3
10g KH2PO4
25g Booster (12g K2SO4, 2.5g MgSO4)
in 1000ml water

Dose 5ml per 20 gal (75litres) daily
Equivalent daily dose:
NO3 = 2.5ppm/day
PO4 = 0.5ppm/day
K = = 2.1ppm/day
Mg = 0.02ppm/day

Trace - 2.5ml Tropica master Grow/Day = ?? ppm Fe

PPS-Pro
PPS-Pro reference

Stock Solution
59g K2SO4
65g KNO3
6g KH2PO4
41g MgSO4
in 1000ml water

Dose 1ml /10Gal (38litres)
Equivalent daily dose:
NO3 = 1ppm/day
PO4 = 0.1ppm/day
K = = 1.4ppm/day
Mg = 0.1ppm/day

Trace (80g in 1l dosed 1ml/10gal) = 0.13ppm/day Fe


So there you have it. My dosing is a little leaner than PPS-Pro (but I dose clay-balls into the substrate as well) and a lot leaner than EI. I do like the waterchange regime of EI and the fish seem to also. As we re-use the water for the loo I dont mind the water use - my water changes dont keep up with the "demand" anyhow.

With low dose levels its important to keep up the dosing daily or every other day. If I skip a couple of days in a row Nitrate can bottom out to zero and I find Ludwigia's and Pogo start growing a lot of unsightly roots into the watercolumn. Consistent, but low concentrations is my goal.

When we went away for a couple of weeks I just dropped in a double dose for the couple of days before we left and came back to a jungle.

Hope this post is useful to someone.

*looks at time* /slap!

Edit: - I left out three pieces of critical info.

1) When I measure them with test kits I'm getting NO3 = 1-5 mg/l and PO4 = 1.0mg/l.

2) I have 80 threadfins, 40 spotted blue-eyes, and 15 Corydoras sterbai in this tank - presumably they add some nitrogenous waste.

3) Credit where credit is due. I developed my confidence in calculating dose rates etc from this page and compared the numbers to what Dave posted for PMDD and Gilberts Brew. From here I just selected the range of values that seemed like a good starting point. Later I discovered I had essentially reinvented PPS-pro for myself. After reading a couple of posts by kekon on APC (one and two) I was convinced that low NO3 in particular was better in soft water and that a little extra Mg made all the difference in soft water.

Friday, December 14, 2007

Potassium Deficiency





You can read all over the internet that potassium (K) deficiency often manifests as pinholes in older leaves.


In my tanks I find that Hygrophila corymbosa 'kompakt' is the perfect indicator for potassium levels in the tank. Its a K-Pig

Recently I removed all supplemental K from my fert mix and gH booster mix to test an idea that lower K would help kill off some filamentous algae (it didn't). I use KNO3 for my nitrate supply so there was still some K going into the tank daily.

These pics show the impact of low K on Hygrophila corymbosa 'kompakt'

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The pinholes developed on older leaves after the first week and later the affected leaves came off. I've been scooping handfuls of leaves that look like this from the water surface over the past few weeks.

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This photo was taken just after I added K2S04 back into my macro fert mix and gH booster (made similar to Seachem's Equilibrium). You can see the plants are poorly shaped as they have lost a lot of leaves but new growth is looking good again!

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I took this photo of a healthy plant today (not the same one)... you can see a couple of older leaves with pinholes still attached but the new growth is spectacular.

I also found significant pinholes and minor leaf thinning in Hygrophila polysperma 'rosanervig'. My Ludwigias started to look a bit dodgy also (blotchy colour, poor growth). Other plants didn't show any real stress.​

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Madagascar Lace Plant - Aponogeton madagascariensis

from 2007


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Growing in DIY sand/laterite/zeolite mix.
Daily ferts... similar to PPS + a few DIY clay+blood&bone+osmocote fert balls at the roots.
Soft Water. kH 2, gH 4
CO2 and 8000K Halide lights.
27-28C (warm for this plant)

I bought this plant a while ago from an LFS (cost me around $40 after some sweet talking and waving $20 notes in the air... sticker price was $70!)

I was so excited to finally own *the* plant that typifies plants in aquaria in books when I was a kid. After I got home I googled up some info and read you should always buy one with a good bulb (mine had virtually none) ​ Friends suggested it was a tissue culture specimen grown in QLD and hense no bulb so no reserves to live on and it will surely die. ​ ...... that was 4 months ago (I think).

Reading on the internet tells me these plants need to be kept cool. My tank was at 24C then and this is really the top end of the range.

Last month I bought a school of threadfins that needed the tank to be warmer... so I increased the temp to 28C and started scheming on how I was going to get another big cool-water tank past Mrs Grubs in order to save Mr. Madagascariensis. That hasn't happened yet but the plant is still growing gang-busters!!! The leaf I'm holding has just expanded and in the top photo you might be able to make out a new leaf on its way up.

Every leaf that appears is bigger than the one before... The olive colour is the new leaves.. they then seem to go greener with green spot algae colonising the leaves as they age. Seeing as how there was very little bulb to start with at least I know that it must be loving my DIY laterite substrate and getting its own nutrients via the roots.

It is a real feature in the tank and I'm lovin' growing it... and I dont have to trim it!!! yay!​



​ The flower is starting to fill out.

The stalk behind the flower appears to aleady be going hard so hopefully the flower will not drop off prematurely! ​

The stalk of the second flower has done the same and it wouldn't surprise me if the second flower never opens...

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Not the greatest shot in the world but you can see a few seeds (swolen base with longer "spike") forming on this flower.


Note: this is flower #4. The previous photo was #3 and seeds formed but I put the flower in a floating chinese food container and it the whole thing rotted as I didn't change the water often enough.

Flower 5 is coming out now but the stem is rotting behind the flower before it will open fully.

Bud #6 is on its way up!!!

All of the flowers are suffering from stem rot behind the flower before/as it opens. I dont know why. I suspect they are growing too fast and are drying out under the halides before they have a chance to toughen up after leaving the water surface. I'll try and keep the next bud underwater...even if I have to stand there and hold it under all day!



2014

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Getting too big for the tank! Just noticed a bud forming tonight too. ​

Smaller plant on the right side is just finding its stride after sitting for 6 months at < 5cm high

Specs: 60x45x38h tank, DIY gravel/red clay. Osmocote/clay balls pushed under the plants every 3 months. No water column fertiliser at all. Room temperature. CO2 added. Single Up Aqua Pro Z. for 8hrs. KH <1, GH ~3 EC ~300 µS/cm using rainwater + DIY GH booster (for the cherry shrimp).

Tank was set up just to raise these so no focus at all on layout other than placing the plants under the light ​​

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Unlike other apon flowers I have not seen any free pollen on this flower spike. The entire spike is a little sticky, and I've been gently wiping it from tip to centre with a very soft brush, and occasionally dipping the flower head in the water (where you would normally see a cloud of pollen float away on the water surface). So far the brush has remained clean, and I haven't seen any pollen floating. Dipping the flowers is normally a great way to get pollen off the anthers and onto the stigma (as the flower moves through the water film the pollen that was floating sticks to the flower).

The little dots on the tips are the anthers that should crack open to release the pollen - I can see with a hand lense they are closed - wondering if I need bright light or a hot lamp to dry them out more.

Still.... there is some swelling in the centre of the spike suggesting some flowers have been pollinated *shrug*



​ ^ I never got any seedlings from that flower.... but today is moving day in the Grubs Apon world.

Out with the old - this tank is only 35cm high and two of the lace plants are now way too big.... and the tank and slab of wood and duct tape (over the polystyrene) under it are a bit too agricultural for my office.
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In with the new - Mr Aqua 45cm rimless cube - $50 second hand from a shrimp nut. I was thinking of going bigger - but this is low maintenance, low light, trouble free tank so I decided to keep it that way - but the additional 10cm height will be good, but only room for a couple of Lace plants. Tank is still filling via a piece of airline from a bucket perched on the bookcase. No aquascape. DIY magic red clay and gravel base with a good amount of osmocote. Capped with a 50/50 mix of Kaito aquasoil + 2mm midnight gravel from the LFS (raises PH, and KH) + a few handfuls of left over magic red clay and gravel mix.
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This is the biggest of the plants - the smallest is from the same batch of seed and is only a tiny 30mm high with 3 little leaves - it puts up a new leaf every now and then but never takes off. I'm hoping a replant into the new cube will give it a push. This big guy is a treat! ​
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Enough growth points? One day I hope to divide this plant up and when I do I might get 4 or more plants from it... but today I'm just pulling off the big leaves and replanting it into the cube.
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There are a number of varieties and the name depends on which naming convention you subscribe to... but here is the "narrow leaf" and the "broad leaf"
The broad leaf is A. madagascariensis and this narrow leaf A. henkelianus (not to be confused with the "other" narrow leaf that has more incomplete and irregular fenestrations)
From this article in TFM the broad would be A. madagascariensis var. major and the narrow is A. madagascariensis var. henkelianus and "the other narrow leaved one" is A. madagascariensis var. madagascariensis

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The tank is not heated - currently 19C. Small amount of CO2, Rainwater and a little DIY hardness booster. EC ~300µS/cm. pH ~6.5-7. No water column ferts. Every 4-6 months I sink a few DIY osmocote + clay balls into the sub. Tank is home to a small "gaggle" of common cherry shrimp only... and a few small other plants. Lighting has been a single 2ft Up Aqua ProZ - so quite low lighting. The new cube is getting a similar but hopefully slightly brighter cheap and cheerful HinterfeldHK Chihiros A-Series Aquasky Planted 27W (not arrived yet)... There is a massive hole in the 45cm light fitting market if you don't want a fan (Kessil 160 is perfect form factor but I dont want the noise of the fan in my office).​

​ An update on my new cube tank with the lace plants. Its taken 3 months for the tank to stabilise after replanting. On filling the initial nutrient release from the sediment/osmocote painted the sides a nice green with a hard encrusting GDA or GSA. I only cleaned the front glass and it was too much effort so I left the sides green to see if it would pass on its own. Over the three months a population of small freshwater limpets Ferrissia sp. boomed, cleaned the glass for me and is now declining from starvation as the tank is too clean (phew). They are the white specks on the side glass in the bottom pic. I also squashed every mini-ramshorn snail I could see whenever I could and now the tank is completely free of them.

The two little lace seedlings at the front are 2 years old and the same age as the big one in the back left. They just haven't taken off but are double the size they were last year. Perhaps they will always be stunted, or perhaps one day they'll get over whatever hump is holding them back and they will boom. The big one (left ) is just starting to pump out big leaves after the transplant. It is in the process of dividing itself up and has 5-6 growth points so its going to fill the tank. The narrow leaf (right) has grown strongly the whole time.

Tank is room temperature in my office, CO2, medium LED lighting. No fertilisers in the water. Rainwater and a little GH booster every 2 weeks. Cherry shrimp only.

The secret to these plants is high nutrient sediment, low nutrient cooler water and easy on the light.

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